The panade recipe in The Zuni Cafe Cookbook got here to my consideration when a buddy baked a good looking double-version of it in an over-sized AGA dutch oven and served it at a cocktail party years in the past. It was the show-stopping centerpiece of a meal flanked by a good looking winter inexperienced + chicory salad and gem-shaded glasses of wine. The mixture of effervescent cubes of brothy bread and caramelized onions silkily merging with molten threads of cheese is knee-buckling. It’s the proper instance of a brief listing of the best elements coming collectively into one thing way more than then sum of their elements.
I’ve baked variations of this panade within the years since, and it by no means disappoints. It’s endlessly adaptable, which means which you can add seasonal elements to fit your fancy. For instance, in my case, I do a vegetarian model by switching up the broth, and I like my onions on the caramelized aspect of the spectrum. I’ll add no matter sautéed greens or roasted greens I’ve round. Judy additionally listed a variety of concepts and variations within the cookbook, so when you’ve got it (and you need to!) you should definitely have a look at these for year-round inspiration. Her unique had chard. I take advantage of a lot of scallions in mine. Briefly, it’s a type of IYKYK recipes. Molly Wizenberg knew what was up manner again in 2005 when she wrote in regards to the Judy panade recipe right here.
I’m going to dive in and reply quite a few questions right here which may pop up. The ingredient listing for this panade couldn’t be less complicated, however the satan is within the particulars and navigating private preferences.
What Sort of Bread for this Panade?
The brief reply is an efficient, chewy artisan sourdough loaf. That stated, I will even argue that a whole lot of that is private choice. If you happen to bake sourdough at house, by all means, use that. Both of these alternative will doubtless lead to a properly structured panade with good distinction between a few of the parts. The bread alternative is such an enormous deal on this recipe, every one will affect your finish end result immensely. I discovered the onerous manner once I used a extra industrial sourdough loaf to make the panade one evening – a lot finer crumb, much less/no chewiness, and I’m guessing it was 100% all-purpose flour. The ensuing panade broke down too far, into an unstructured droop. You need the bread to place up a combat and maintain a little bit of pressure. Not go to mush altogether. The very best model I’ve made was with a loaf of day-old do-it-yourself sourdough made with wild rice in it. 
Crust or no Crust?
There are arguments for each. The panade right here retained the crust on the bread cubes. However I’ve achieved crustless variations earlier than. If you happen to resolve you’re keen on an excellent oozy, silky panade, go crustless. If you happen to like your panade to have extra construction, maintain your crust. Or go 50/50!
What’s the Finest Broth for Panade?
We have a tendency to make use of no matter good-tasting broth we have now round or within the freezer (defrost). I really like an herby broth for this scallion and chive model, however if you happen to’re in a pinch seize a bouillon dice or two and go from there. Judy makes use of a hen broth in her recipe (which doesn’t work for vegetarians), however I’ve had nice outcomes with mushroom broth, and corn broth together with roasted cherry tomatoes and goat cheese within the panade. I’ve even used spicy bean broth.
Can I take advantage of a Totally different Cheeses on this Panade?
You may! I name for Gruyere, however point out within the headnote that one in all my favourite variations ended up being a mix of Gruyere, Parmesan, and Pecorino cheeses. I choose barely assertive cheeses for the panade, with at the very least a portion being a cheese that oozes when melted. For instance, I wouldn’t attain for a mozzarella – too gentle.
Can I Make this Forward of Time?
I usually make the caramelized onions forward of time. After which another fillings that I would have the ability to pre-roast.
Soupy versus Dry-ish Panades
Once more, that is private choice. After you bake panade a couple of times you’ll begin to get a way of what model you like. You may go the soup-is route by including extra broth. Or lean into extra of a stuffing vibe with much less broth. The recipe beneath goals to hit the mark the place the panade is transitioning from a stuffing-like texture, into silkier magic, not-yet-in-soup territory.
This recipe is a warming, hearty, winter hotter. It seems so rustic, however the silkiness down within the depths is what’s extremely shocking. It’s the final word consolation dish that I hope you take pleasure in as a lot as I’ve through the years. Because of Jamie & Chanda & Bonni for our SF panade dinners, we miss them (and also you) a lot!
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