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What’s Cooking: Inexperienced curry at Aunt Sri’s, once more

by Rabia Bounnan
October 18, 2024
in Street Food
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What’s Cooking: Inexperienced curry at Aunt Sri’s, once more
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The completed pot of inexperienced curry

This recipe is my husband’s household’s cherished inexperienced curry recipe. It’s served at each household gathering and various funerals — certainly, at Grandma Nang’s funeral, it was seasoned with the “ganja” that kin present in her purse and everybody had a pleasant, mellow time after the cremation. All of which is to say, this may be lots completely different from your loved ones’s inexperienced curry recipe. It’d even look completely different. My chef good friend Dylan refers back to the superb shade of curry as “attractive inexperienced”, a beautiful celadon hue that some curries boast when they’re delivered to the desk, normally in a flowery restaurant. Nevertheless, this not a “attractive inexperienced” curry. It’s what Chef Andy Ricker would name a “khaki” inexperienced. To be trustworthy, I don’t belief “attractive inexperienced” curries. They’re like males who’re overly groomed and wax their physique hair. Why a lot give attention to look? 

You would possibly say to your self, “Whoa, all these phrases for inexperienced curry!” however the reality is, this recipe has been my very own White Whale, cavorting in deep and uneven ocean waves simply out of attain, solely to sometimes ram me port-side unawares. Which is all to say, I’ve struggled with this recipe. Till I found the key of the home.

A part of the curry paste is store-bought.

Sure! It’s true! There are two chili pastes on this inexperienced curry: a do-it-yourself paste and a store-bought paste. So you may say that this paste is doctored, similar to how I used to physician a jar of Ragu with further onions, garlic, greens and spices and name it my very own after I was 12. Besides this curry is method, far more difficult (and scrumptious) than that spaghetti sauce.

There are three elements to the curry paste: the dried spice combine, the do-it-yourself chili paste, and the store-bought chili paste. You need to use any store-bought chili paste. You don’t want to fret about that half. All you could know is that you just want 2 kg of it (we’re feeding 20, you would possibly wish to alter accordingly.)

Inexperienced curry (Gaeng Kiew Waan)

Serves 10-20 (relying on how huge your eaters are)

Prep time: 5-8 hours                                  Cooking time: 45 minutes

The evening earlier than or early within the morning of:

  • 2 kg beef shank, sliced in opposition to the grain
  • 1.5 L coconut milk “tail” (or UHT coconut milk thinned with a bit water)
  • Fish sauce to style
  • Palm sugar, damaged up in a mortar and pestle, to style

In coconut milk “tail”, stew beef shank till very tender over low warmth in an enormous pot. This might take wherever between 5 to eight hours. Skim fats off of the floor now and again. In the direction of the tip of the stewing course of, season with a bit fish sauce and palm sugar. Strive a Tablespoon of every. When carried out, flip off warmth and carry on the range (or counter) subsequent to the wok the place you can be frying your chili paste.

Beef shank prepared for the curry

For the spice combine:

  • 2 Tablespoons coriander seeds
  • 3 Tablespoons cumin seeds
  • 1 Tablespoon white peppercorns (black must be nice)
  • 2 nutmeg pods (or about 9 g nutmeg powder)
  • 3 mace blades (or about 4 g floor mace)

Whereas your beef is stewing, toast all substances in a dry pan till aromatic, then grind finely in a spice grinder. Put aside.

Backside proper: the completed spice combine; high left: mace blades and nutmeg pods; high proper: white peppercorns; center left: cumin seeds; and center proper: coriander seeds

For the curry paste:

  • 2 kg store-bought inexperienced curry paste (put aside in its personal bowl)
  • 5 coriander (cilantro) roots, chopped
  • 3 huge lemongrass bulbs, sliced
  • 2 inch piece of galangal, peeled and chopped
  • Rind from 1 makrut lime, sliced
  • 200 g Thai shallots, peeled (or 100 g banana shallots)
  • 200 g Thai garlic, peeled (or 100 g Western garlic)
  • 10 inexperienced chee fah (or goat or spur) chilies, sliced
  • 10 inexperienced fowl’s eye chilies, stemmed

Whereas your beef is stewing, make do-it-yourself paste. Beginning with cilantro roots, pound in a mortar and pestle right into a paste earlier than add including the subsequent factor, one after the other, persevering with down the listing till you get to the fowl’s eye chilies. Put aside subsequent to inexperienced curry paste. 

High left: the do-it-yourself curry paste; beneath it: the store-bought inexperienced curry paste; decrease left: coriander roots; backside center: lemongrass; backside proper: garlic: center center: galangal and makrut lime peel; center proper: shallots; high center: palm sugar; high proper: chee fah and fowl’s eye chilies
Shut-up take a look at the do-it-yourself paste

For ending curry (the “cooking” course of):

  • 500 mL coconut cream (“hua kati”)
  • 2 Tablespoons palm sugar, damaged up in a mortar and pestle
  • 2 Tablespoons fish sauce
  • 100 g fowl’s eye chilies (for garnish)
  • 6 makrut lime leaves, torn (for garnish)
  • 20 Thai candy basil leaves (for garnish)
Garnishes: candy Thai basil (bai horapa, high); torn makrut lime leaves (backside left); and fowl’s eye chilies (backside proper)

In an already sizzling wok over medium-low warmth, add 4 ladlefuls of coconut milk from the pot of beef stewed in coconut tail subsequent to the wok. Add each curry pastes, do-it-yourself and store-bought, to the coconut milk and stir to include. Then add the spice combine and stir. Because the paste dries and bubbles, proceed including extra coconut milk, ladleful by ladleful, such as you’re making a risotto. You proceed to stir, including a ladleful of coconut milk at a time, till the paste is “aromatic” (ie. will get up your nostril). That is most likely probably the most intuitive (ie. troublesome) a part of the curry-making course of. You need the paste to have expanded to about 1/4 of the wok, however you don’t need an excessive amount of oil separation. Stir repeatedly in order that the paste doesn’t burn.

In case your beef isn’t on a burner, put it on a burner now and activate its warmth to medium-low. Add paste to the meat and stir to include. Within the wok, add about half a cup of water to “clear” it out and add that to the meat as properly. We don’t wish to waste something! Flip off the warmth underneath the wok.

Now we season the curry. Add 2 Tablespoons of fish sauce and a pair of Tablespoons of palm sugar, and style for seasoning. Should you like the flavour, carry the curry to a boil and add coconut cream.

Decrease warmth again to low. Style for seasoning once more. Then add your garnishes — chilies, lime leaves, basil — stir and switch up the warmth to carry to a boil once more. Then flip off the warmth and you might be carried out!

Serve with rice, kanom jeen (fermented rice noodles) and/or roti with nam pla prik (fish sauce with chilies), hard-boiled eggs, recent fowl’s eye chilies for spiceheads and possibly a cut-up lime (some individuals like a bit squeeze for freshness).

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